Thursday, September 29, 2011

Singapore and Malaysia: Travels with Ibu and Pak

Magnificent orchid display at the Singapore Botanic Gardens
The blog has been a bit quiet lately because I took a short and unexpected holiday to Singapore and Malaysia.  Just thought I would share some of my travels with you. 

All in all it was a great trip: fantastic food, wonderful gardens and lansdcapes, warm and friendly people, inexpensive and easy to get around.
A truly inspired archway of orchids, Singapore Botanic Gardens


We started off in Singapore (this is expensive) and much has changed since Gavin Young's 1991 fantastic travel book "In Search of Conrad" but he sums up the place much better than I could.
Torch Ginger, Singapore Botanic Gardens


"The skyscrapers of Singapore's newly created seafront shoot-up have a self satisfied look, shining like dragon's teeth in the sunshine.*  They proclaim both the rewards of hardwork and a new hard-headed Singaporean-Confucian attitude to the wicked layabout modern world. 
 At the same time one cannot deny that those icing sugar towers, those shiny dominoes announcing MONEY make a spectacular background to the scores of cargo ships and tankers of all sizes and nationalities that spread themselves across the anchorage in neat rows like a fleeet waiting for some cock-hatted admiral to review it." *(Very smoggy when we were there from the fires in Sumatra).
A must see if you are in Singapore are the Botanic Gardens - a beautiful and welcome green space full of the most spectacular display of orchids and tropical plants.
Okra, chokoes, bitter gourds, snakebeans, eggplant on a market stall in Little India
We also get a chance to catch up with my daughter's old friend Claudia - a professional chef - who took us for a sumptuous seafood meal at Long Beach on Dempsey Hill with black pepper crab and razor clams - the kind of food that Singapore is famous for.


Perhentian 'Tuna Bay'
Next we took the overnight 'jungle' train through from Singapore in the south to the north of Malaya.  All I can say was that it was 'interesting', nothing like the photos in the internet site (no buffet car!!) but the scenery was spectacular. 

We then spent a heavenly five days on the Perhentian Islands with the best snorkelling I have ever done.  Clear blue waters, live coral and spectacular sea life including turtles, fantastic tropical fish and even baby sharks.  To walk off the beach into clear warm waters and be surrounded by hundreds of rainbow coloured fish I think is becoming a rare thing.


Penang - our 'limo'
Penanga Hotel
Back to Kota Bahru on the border with Thailand and then a day long bus trip west to Penang where we had one of those lucky breaks - the gorgeous Penaga Hotel in central George Town, part of the UNESCO heritage site.  

The Penaga is one of the few hotels in Malaysia with 'green' credentials and an eclectic mix of modern art and furniture and antiques, converted from old shop houses.  They have an 'artist in residence studio' with two lucky Australians currently staying there sponsored by the owners.  We spent a happy few days covering the 'art trail' of Penang by rickshaw, taking in the sites and feasting on the famous Nyonya food (Malay/Chinese).  We travelled far and wide looking for good, authentic food and on the last night had one of the best meals of our holiday in the Penaga 'Cinnamon' restaurant- 4 courses for MR28.50 (about $9A)
Nutmeg and mace drying on the streets of Penang



Temple sign - how you know your in the exotic East
Food is a funny thing.  It can be the simplest thing, but if you are starving and you get what you are craving for - it can be the best.  It was like that when we got off the train from Singapore after 13 hours.  While we were waiting for the boat to the Perhentians I found a Kopi/Roti open-air cafe (Coffee/Bread).  Here a man in a Malaysian long shirt with songkok hat was making a kind of stuffed pancakes from scratch.  My mug of strong black Malaysian coffee with a stuffed banana and coconut pancake was one of the best things I have ever eaten.


We discovered a real mix of cuisines in Penang, a lot of it familiar to us from our travels in Indonesia with the added flavours of Thai, Indian, Sri Lankan, Chinese, Vietnamese and Western.
B-b-q lobster and prawns with tom yum soup and kang-kung
Berjaya, Langkawi
Our final stay was on the beautiful island of Langkawi - a three hour ferry trip from Penang.  We stayed on the north west part of the island on the edge of the Machinching Geoforest Park at Pantai Kok. 

It was an incredibly beautiful location with soaring jungle cliffs full of wildlife - lizards, squirrels, birds and lots of monkeys.  Langkawi is also duty free so a cold Tiger beer will cost you about 30c.  I was beginning to get addicted to $4 Mai Thai's so it was time to head for home.
Macaque monkeys, Langkawi
The lovely Pantai Kok marina, Langkawi
The delight of travel are, for me, those unscripted moments - the unexpected places and people that you meet and one snapshot is from Penang.  We had gone to Fort Cornwallis and Michael was enjoying every exhibit, while I had taken a rest in the shade by the ticket booth, when suddenly the aged Chinese ticket seller pulled out her mouth organ and started playing a medley from 'The Sound of Music'.  By the time she got to the second bar of 'Edelweiss' I was laughing with her and singing along.  Her furious husband appeared from his nap under the table and, in spite of his loud remonstrations in Chinese, she continued with a wink and a wave as I left playing a lively rendition of 'You are my Sunshine'.  Happy travels!
Sunset in the Perhentians (with lots of smog from fires in nearby Sumatra!)






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